training – left and right – clicker style

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This topic contains 105 replies, has 7 voices, and was last updated by  kizkiznobite 12 years, 7 months ago.

Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 106 total)
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  • #61491

    kizkiznobite
    Member

    all rules in place – clicker charged and an experienced clicker user/free shaping capable dog is assumed for this:

    you need – 2 table mat sized thin boards (i use old table mats)

    you sit for this – dog facing you in front – work silently – occasional motivation noises only

    to get fluent may take at least 12 sessions depending on the dog – you will need to judge the session lengths — end on a good note: click and reward each success – not going to keep typing click reward  ;D but reward between your feet – this is important it will set the dog up for th next go

    place mat on floor to your left approx 4ft away on line with your left foot

    free shape nose to mat to fluency do not add any cue yet

    remove that mat – take a think break

    repeat with the mat on the right to fluency do not add any cue yet

    remove that mat – take a think break

    redo the above until each mat can be placed in turn further and further away until you have about 6ft distance

    then start to do it with the each mat in turn until further out from the foot – so what you are doing is increasing the distance from you in length and width but still keeping it clearly to your left or right ok?

    when it is fluent and reliable without hesitation then start to add a visual cue by:

    place mat as dog starts to go towards it extend arm – palm out – towards the mat – if you lean slightly with your body towards it too it will be a stronger cue

    when you have it one side – change and do it the other – you will need to put the clicker and treats in the other hand remember when cueing your left side so you can deliver the cue correctly

    eventually you will be able to test this by placing both mats down and alternating and mixing the
    cues and gradually increasing the mat distance and – in time – then removing the mats and sendng the dog left or right.

    now – this is the hard bit so you try and think this out – bearing in mind we make it easy for the dog not for us ;D

    you want to add a verbal cue – the dog is facing you for this you visual cue left – what verbal you going to use? you visual cue right – what cue you going to use

    brownie points for why?? ;D

    #92425

    Anonymous

    Use opposite cue so as when out if dog is not facing you are doing it opposite for him?  So verbal cue should be whatever side to him?  Even if when he is facing it is opposite to me?

    “free shape nose to mat to fluency do not add any cue yet”
    Does this mean when nose touches mat click and reward?

    “Think break” 
    Some time with no mats, no clicker, no treats – to clear his mind so that when he goes back to it he is not in the same thought (i.e. other side) as before?

    #92426

    kizkiznobite
    Member

    [quote author=Mudgie link=topic=3988.msg54047#msg54047 date=1152791927]
    Use opposite cue so as when out if dog is not facing you are doing it opposite for him?  So verbal cue should be whatever side to him?  Even if when he is facing it is opposite to me?

    [/quote]

    lets see if others agree/disagree

    #92427

    kizkiznobite
    Member

    [quote author=Mudgie link=topic=3988.msg54047#msg54047 date=1152791927]

    “free shape nose to mat to fluency do not add any cue yet”
    Does this mean when nose touches mat click and reward?

    [/quote]

    yes – if dog not ever so experienced at free shaping then you may have to do the click/reward for looking – then no click reward for that but for moving towards it then no click reward for that until touching.
    fluency is when he automatically walks up andnose touches 15 times in a row without hesitation.

    think break is exactly that – lid on treat box – clicker in pocket – mats off the floor – about 3 -5 mins

    #92428

    Anonymous

    Bev I am going to start the first part of this tonight so you need to tell me soon.  If I am putting my left hand up and saying left when Nacho is looking at me – he is going to HIS right.  So surely if I am outside I either have to remove verbal cue or say it so it is consistent with him no matter what way he is standing?

    However, if I am using visual cue of left with left hand and saying right then that is confusing for him also.  Should I still be saying left for him to go to my left.  Changed my mind with this I think – not sure at all yet.  I can’t be using visual aid to left and saying right so I think we say left and he will associate that with what way my hand is directing?  

    #92429

    Anonymous

    [quote author=kizkiznobite link=topic=3988.msg54046#msg54046 date=1152791333]

    bearing in mind we make it easy for the dog not for us ;D

    you want to add a verbal cue – the dog is facing you for this you visual cue left – what verbal you going to use? you visual cue right – what cue you going to use

    [/quote]

    Sticking with my first answer.  Difficult for me but not for him.  When I am out my verbal cue is dependant on how he is facing.

    #92430

    Anonymous

    hi,

    from my experience a dog who will go left/right still goes YOUR left/right when they are cued facing you (ie they go the “wrong” way if you suddenly swap the cues its like they actually have learned YOUR left and right, not theirs).  if you want to use it for agility your brain will NOT work fast enough to call both away and towards left/rights – honestly it wont 🙂

    Just my experience.

    Claire x

    #92431

    Anonymous

    So my visual is my left hand  – verbal cue should be left – no matter what way dog is facing?

    #92432

    kizkiznobite
    Member

    you will be no where near ready to visual or verbal cue this tonight 🙂

    #92433

    Anonymous

    Never doubt the power of the Nachster!!!

    Just flippin tell me…………………… >:(  :'(  >:(  :'(  >:(  :'(

    #92434

    kizkiznobite
    Member

    u will get used to me – i want folk to learn by thinking and asking and coming up with the answers if they can – also – most folk go far too fast for the dog -(esp free shaping – the dog has to test he got it right – that has to be allowed for his sense of achievment) too fast = no reliabilty = weak behaviour – so get fluency to each stage – there is no way even i would cue this in the first session even with an experienced free shaping easy to cue dog – prob not even until the 4th session – i want fluency & reliability without hesitatn – not speed ;D

    #92435

    Anonymous

    Okay mom – just kinda like to know what the outcome is.

    #92436

    kizkiznobite
    Member

    oh thats easy – a dog that will go left or right on cue 😉

    #92437

    Anonymous

    oh you are so lucky that as I swing my arms and give verbal cues at the moment that you are not within bopping distance  >:D  ;D

    #92438

    deebee
    Member

    mudgie  ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D you make me laugh :-* :-*

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